Hell hole of the Pacific?...Yeah right!

Just across the water from Paihia lies the quaint little village of Russell. Once known as the "hell hole of the Pacific" due to its status as a major trading post and subsequent rise in drinking holes and brothels, James Busby was tasked with cleaning up the town's act upon his appointment as Governor.

Today its trade is much more serene in nature, mostly based around the clear waters of the surrounding bays, where fishing and diving are the most raucous activities. Many of the town's traditional buildings are still standing, giving an eerie sense of having stepped back in time a little once you get there.

The claim to house the country's oldest petrol station - which looks like it was cut out of the corner of someone's house! - helps with this feel.

But as for being the "hell hole of the Pacific", to quote an iconic series of beer billboard adverts in NZ, Yeah Right!